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March 28, 2005
Turpan Trip
Sorry for not posting recently, but things have been a bit topsy-turvy. My schedule just underwent a major reorganization, and I decided to use a couple of the days-off that were created in the shuffle to travel to the famed desert oasis of Turpan.
For those of you who aren't familiar, Turpan (well, Moon Lake near Turpan) is the second lowest spot on the face of the earth after the Dead Sea. It's also the hottest place in China and the site of some really terrific historical tourist spots.
I left Korla with my friend and fellow teacher, David Shallcross, on Thursday night at 10:00 pm Beijing time. The overnight train that heads between here and Urumqi takes about 8 hours to reach Turpan, which means we arrived well before the sun rose. Unfortunately (from the point of view of a tourist), the train station one takes to get to Turpan is actually in Daheyan, 55 km north of the city. We boarded a minibus at Daheyan at 6:15 am and were driven a few blocks away to the bus station where everyone was told to buy tickets. So, everyone gets off the bus and buys a ticket... only to realise after the money's been forked over that the ticket says the bus doesn't leave until 7:30 am! Needless to say, everyone on the bus was pissed, but all the huffing and puffing in the world wouldn't get us our money back. The bus staff's logic was basically, "Why would you want to go to Turpan right now anyway? It's still dark! What are you going to do in the dark?" Sigh.
So, after an hour of waiting in the dark, we finally got on our way. Oddly enough, we soon found out that there's pretty much no road at all for the first 15 or 20 kilometers between the train station and Turpan. And when I say no road, I don't mean a dirt road...I mean NO road! Occasionally, while weaving back and forth along the rutted tracks of previous vehicles, we would catch sad glimpses of where the road used to be. Then it would mysteriously dissolve into nothingness or head off the edge of some small cliff. About 40 minutes after our bumpy journey began, the road reappeared in the desert like some sort of transportation mirage...and an hour later we arrived at Turpan's central bus depot.
In the summer, Turpan is supposedly swarming with tourists, but as with all of the locations I've thus far visited in China, the warm weather hordes had not yet arrived. We were immediately approached by Uyghur cabbies desperate for an off-season fare, and agreed to hire a man by the name of Parhat, our friend and guide for the day. After a quick breakfast of baozi (steamed buns) stuffed with mutton, cabbage and onion, we headed off on our day of adventure.
Note: pictures of my visit to Turpan will be coming soon!
The first stop on our whirlwind tour was the ancient city of Jiaohe, which was one of the most important and powerful cities in western China for about 2000 years until its destruction by the Mongols in the 13th century. The ruins are located on a 30m-high plateau surrounded by intersecting rivers on both sides. The ruins contain eroded sub-terranean housing, watchtowers, a massive Buddhist temple, and the remains of 101 stupas (including the oldest remaining stupa in China at over 1,400 years old). Everything looked stunning in the early morning sunlight as we wandered alone.
The next stop was the Emin Ta mosque, completed in 1777 to commemorate the military victory by Turpan's Uyghurs over an uprising of local aristocrats. The mosque's massive minaret is considered one of the architectural gems of the silk road...its surface is covered in intricate patterns created by a fanciful arrangement of simple mud bricks.
After a lunch of noodles back in Turpan, we headed east to the the massive ancient city of Gaochang. Having suffered far more destruction than Jiaohe, Gaochang is still impressive. The city was the capital of the Uyghur empire in the 9th century and a great deal of the city's ancient walls still remain. We rode a donkey cart from the entrance to the far end of the city where a large Buddhist temple once stood. The faded remnants of paintings of the Buddha were still visible in some places inside the temple. Rather than return on the donkey cart to our waiting taxi driver, we decided to walk the 2 miles back to entrance. Along the way we noticed that the city is literally covered in broken pottery. However, as we lack any expertise in archaeology, we were unable to decide whether these artifacts were of an ancient or a more recent origin.
After a brief stop at the Astana Graves site (mummies, yay!), our last stop of the day were the caves at Bezeklik. The site of the caves is stunning, nestled on a cliffside over a river in the Flaming Mountains. The caves once held some of the best preserved Buddhist statuary and painting in China, until they were carted off to Britain by Sir Aurel Stein in 1914. Some interesting images of the Buddha still remain, but the best stuff is in museums in the West. The Chinese are still pretty sore about the thievery by the "Western devils", as is evidenced by the captions inside the caves. Most of the descriptions ended something like this: "Stein took most of images in the Winter of 1914. Now there is nothing."
Whew! Well, that was a lot of travelling for one day...and if you're still reading this you're probably tired too. We took the midnight train back to Korla that evening, and I was back in my bed by 9:00 am. I'd highly recommend Turpan to anyone who's thinking of visiting.
I'll try to get pictures of Turpan into the gallery in the next few days.
posted March 28, 2005 at 12:48 PM unofficial Xinjiang time | HaoHao This!
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Sounds like a great trip. What will your next expedition be?
The comment above was posted by Norm at March 28, 2005 09:06 PM unofficial Xinjiang time.
Wonderful entry... quite the adventurer. Btw... hi Norm.
The comment above was posted by dad at March 30, 2005 07:02 AM unofficial Xinjiang time.
What an amazing sounding adventure! Your descriptive prose certainly allowed me some vicarious adventuring. I thank you and I continue wishing you godspeed in all your journeys.
The comment above was posted by WMDC at April 1, 2005 02:37 AM unofficial Xinjiang time.
Thanks, Harold... glad to have you along for the ride. As for my next trip, I'm not quite sure. The top three candidates are: the Taklamakan Desert, Kanas Lake up near the Russian border, and Hotan (across the desert on the southern Silk Road).
The comment above was posted by manning at April 2, 2005 09:49 AM unofficial Xinjiang time.
Mike. Really. Deserts are not hot vacation spots. Well, they are, literally, but not figuratively... I mean... you know what I mean. you really should be picking out places with water... three months into my desert vacation now and it might be nice to find somewhere a little more scenic. Glad you are having a good time! Oh, and make sure you throw something fun into Afghanistan for me if you decide to go vacationing that way...
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The comment above was posted by Article at April 7, 2010 06:52 AM unofficial Xinjiang time.
彼女出会い→出会い系セフレ探し→彼女募集出会いサイト→彼氏募集出会いサイト→出会い掲示板→公式セフレコミュニティ→真面目に探す出会い系サイト→出会い系サイト恋人作り→出会い系サイト不倫実行→出会い系サイトテレクラ祭り→友達探し→メル友募集→結婚→スタビ→
The comment above was posted by セフレ代理店 at April 7, 2010 08:09 AM unofficial Xinjiang time.
Emin Ta mosque, completed in 1777 to commemorate the military victory by Turpan's Uyghurs over an uprising of local aristocrats. The mosque's massive minaret is considered one of the architectural gems of the silk road...its surface is covered in intricate patterns created by a fanciful arrangement of simple mud bricks.
The comment above was posted by Miami at April 8, 2010 12:36 AM unofficial Xinjiang time.
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The comment above was posted by youtube at April 12, 2010 09:44 PM unofficial Xinjiang time.
- دردشة المميزة -
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- دردشة صوتية كويتية -
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- دردشة صوتية سودانية -
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- صور وعجائب -
- صور انمي - افلام انمي -
- افلام ومسلسلات ومسرحيات -
- استار اكاديمي 7 -
- السياحة والسفر - مناظر طبيعية -
- الحياة الزوجية - الاسرة والطفل -
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- اسـرار البنـات -
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- الصحة والطب -
- بلاك بيري و ايفون -
- قسم البرامج العربية والمعربة -
- الجرافيكس والتصميم -
- ملحقات الفوتوشوب والفلاش -
- قسم تصاميم الفلاش والسويتش -
- البرامج والكمبيوتر و تبادل الخبرات -
- مشاكل وحلول القسم الـتـقـنـي -
- توبيكات ملونة - صور ماسنجر -
- مسجات - رسائل وسائط -
- مــنــتــدى تغــيير النــك نيـــم - الأســم -
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The comment above was posted by دردشة الخليج at April 15, 2010 11:35 PM unofficial Xinjiang time.
そして感動のED。
The comment above was posted by セフレのまま at April 16, 2010 11:57 AM unofficial Xinjiang time.
Hope you have shared photos too.
The comment above was posted by New York at April 22, 2010 08:15 PM unofficial Xinjiang time.
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The comment above was posted by دردشة الغلا at April 24, 2010 09:18 PM unofficial Xinjiang time.
thank you nice sharing
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The comment above was posted by Haydi at May 2, 2010 07:01 AM unofficial Xinjiang time.
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اهداف ريال مدريد -
كاس العالم 2010 ,
اهداف كاس العالم 2010 ,
مباريات كاس العالم 2010 ,
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اهداف كاس
العالم 2010 , مباريات كاس
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بث مباشر
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كاس اسيا 2011
اهداف ميسي 2010
اهداف ميسي 2011
The comment above was posted by منتديات at May 22, 2010 09:49 PM unofficial Xinjiang time.
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The comment above was posted by sohbet at June 5, 2010 02:39 PM unofficial Xinjiang time.