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January 03, 2008
Wot's... Uh the Deal?

I'm sure it's become clear to those of you who visit this site regularly that I haven't been posting much lately. I'm not making any excuses, but I've just returned from six weeks in the U.S. (and Canada) and while there I just didn't really have the drive to blog. But, now I'm back in Xinjiang and I'm gonna try to be a better blogger... more on this promise later.
So, what's first? Well, I finally managed to catch one of the ultra-obscure direct flights between Beijing and Korla that China Air Force Airlines runs on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. (The only other CAFA destination is some air force base on the border between Gansu and Inner Mongolia.) I'd recommend this option to anyone traveling to Korla, as it cuts at least three hours off of the usual route through Urumqi. The flight was only about 20% full so there was lots of room to stretch out, and to get tickets you just have to show up at Nanyuan Airport in Beijing before 8am. The current price of a ticket is Y1350, which is a bit steep for an airline that's obviously not running to make money, but it's worth it. (One of the pilots told me that the airline's main purpose is to transport air force personnel across the country.)

Best of all, CAFA has replaced the old Tupolev 154s that have a nasty habit of falling apart in midair with more reliable Boeing 737-300s. I was even able to determine from the interior of the plane that it had previously been used by Continental Airlines in the US. Remember those old shag-carpet logos on the divider between first class and economy?

The jet was so retro that it still had a lounge-style first class section with a big couch and four seats facing each other across a large table. You can see a picture of how this jet would have looked when in service for Continental thirty years ago by clicking here. A word to the wise: don't take any pictures when you exit the aircraft in Korla. I had to wait for half an hour before an air force official senior enough could be rounded up to watch me delete my photos. Gotta love the military! Also, you'll need to have someone pick you up at the airport as taxis don't bother showing up for these flights.
And now on to the immediate future...
Those of you excited by this entry have a lot to look forward to but will be sorely disappointed over the next month. That's because I'll be leaving tomorrow for a small mountaintop Tibetan village in Qinghai where I've volunteered to teach English for a month. I'm looking forward to getting away from the modern world for a while, and maybe even losing some weight.
The village is somewhere up above 3000m (read chilly), has no Internet access, no bathing or showering facilities, and no other foreigners. On the plus side, my living accommodations contain "a bed, a desk, a chair, a coal stove for heating and an electric light and socket." Awesome! Oh, and the outhouse is conveniently located only 20 meters away. Here's a picture of the village that was sent to me by the Tibetan guy running the program:

Looks remote, eh? So, I may have difficulties blogging from Qinghai, but know that in the end it's all for the good of the blog. I may try to work up some entries on my laptop and head to the nearest village with an Internet cafe if possible, but I can't guarantee anything.
Happy New Year's everyone... I hope that you'll all have great adventures in 2008. I know I will.
posted January 03, 2008 at 06:27 AM unofficial Xinjiang time | HaoHao This!
Comments
If you could provide some information about the teaching gig you just landed in Qinghai, I'd be very grateful....of course, you might have more to say about the whole deal (or should I say, ordeal?) when you come back after a month. I assume you are not doing this for the money? I've been looking for something similar i.e. dropping out of civilization and teaching English to some people who don't want to learng the language for the exclusive purpose of going to an Ivy (the insanity of Asian kids/parents).
Thanks! I love your blog.
Posted by: Ken at January 3, 2008 10:26 AM
Thanks for the info on the 737Boeing flights to Korla. I frequently use what you call China Airforce Airline (I believe the official English name is China United Airlines) to fly to Gansu Ding Xin Airport (China Space Base) and have used them to Xinjinag in the past. However, those 154 were getting a touch old, and the nice walk through the airplane graveyard at Nan Yuan was increasingly less encouraging. But hey, with a lounge in first, what other way to go? Smoking allowed? Keep up the good work on your blog, I always visit before I go back to Xinjinag. Will send you a notice next time I visit the 2nd Regiment of the People's Production and Construction Corps in Korla.
Posted by: Andre at January 3, 2008 11:43 AM
Hi Michael
I am reading your blog and to my surprise you will teach in Qinhai.I called you but couldn't connect with you.maybe you are on the way now.Take care,big boy.Hope to see you when you come back.Good luck!
Posted by: anna at January 3, 2008 02:47 PM
@Ken:
I found the listing for the this opportunity on Dave's ESL Cafe. The particular listing can be found here.
@Andre:
Actually, China United Airlines is a separate entity from China Air Force Airlines. If you visit the new terminal at Nanyuan Airport, you'll find that China United Airlines now flies to many destinations and has professional looking staff. The people working for CAFA arrive an hour later and wear simple army-style outfits. Also, the Chine United Airlines (Lian Hang) jets are decorate with CUA's new logo, whereas CAFA's planes just have the Chinese flag. Of course, both are run by the air force, but I think CUA operates much more like a private airline.
What kind of business are doing with Nong Er Shi? I'm involved with them myself.
Posted by: michael at January 3, 2008 04:51 PM
WOW! So jealous!! I'm sure you'll have a great time, just hope you don't end up drinking too much yak and mare's milk!!! Take care Zxx
Posted by: Zoe at January 3, 2008 05:42 PM
So, CAFA replaced an impractical and unworkable Russian plane for a more useful and practical Western one. Hell, that's the last thirty years of Chinese history in a nutshell.
Also, I'm sorry, but I have difficulty working up envy for your staying in Tibet. It sounds like something I would love to have done but not so much enjoy the actual doing.
Posted by: Tiako at January 3, 2008 09:19 PM
Hey. I'm incredibly interested about the job offer that you received to teach in Qinghai for a month. I want to experience something different... I'm sick of modern civilization, and I want to go back to the simplicity of primitivism for a while. It would be greatly appreciated if you email me with some information concerning this little adventure of yours'. I'm currently teaching in Beijing, but I wouldn't mind taking a month or two off in Qinghai or surrounding areas to teach English there. :) I sincerely hope you have a profoundly meaningful experience there, and I wish you good luck.
my email: invensiblesz@hotmail.com
Cheers,
Siblesz
Posted by: Siblesz at January 4, 2008 04:25 PM
Just read that Ismail Tilivaldi has resigned and Nur Bekri is acting chairman of XUAR now, thought will read some more at your blog...
Posted by: chon_dada at January 4, 2008 05:47 PM
Hey, is that an obscure but somehow appropriate Pink Floyd reference I see in the title of this post?
Posted by: Will at January 6, 2008 10:24 AM
Sounds like another adventure. I hope you achieve what you set out for, and more.
Norm
Posted by: Norm at January 6, 2008 11:43 PM
That gig in Qinghai sounds great. If I wasn't heading to the states for a long Spring Festival break, I might consider doing something like that. From the photo it looks like you might need to rent a yak for transportation to the nearest internet cafe.
Posted by: Matt at January 7, 2008 02:28 PM
That town looks like it's made out of cardboard, like the town from The Science Of Sleep.
Posted by: Lauren at January 8, 2008 12:14 AM
What does Tibetan food look like? Can't wait to see!
Posted by: Cathy at January 12, 2008 03:51 AM
Hi there,
just wonder, have you ever taught english in Korla, and if you have, any UIghur students?
Posted by: sada at January 13, 2008 04:05 AM
@Imagethief:
You're the winner of the stoner of the week contest here at The Opposite End of China. Yes, that's a Pink Floyd reference from the album "Obscured By Clouds".
Posted by: michael at January 13, 2008 06:56 AM
@michael
sorry for the late reply, was in North Finland for a break. Work with the 2nd Regiment since 1994 exclusively on hops. How about yourself?
Has Lian Hang changed their 154s as well? Got to check that out after CNY.
Posted by: Andre at January 29, 2008 08:39 PM
From what I understand, all inferior aircraft have been banned by the relevant authorities in China.
Posted by: michael at January 30, 2008 01:38 PM
Posted by: ym at June 11, 2008 02:22 PM
